OVEN

1. The clock on my STOVE started flashing F1

You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad. Here is the procedure for determining your problem.
Disconnect power to stove
Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire apx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
Turn power back on to stove.
Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
If after apx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.

2. My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The glow bar (igniter) is glowing, but it will not light..

I'll be glad to give you some pointers, but I always recommend that consumers hire a trained tech to repair their gas appliances. Gas appliances can be dangerous to work on if you are not trained properly.

I think you either have a bad igniter (glow bar) or a bad safety valve. Yes, the glow bar can be bad and still glow. It must pull a predetermined amount of current in order for the safety valve to open. On a tag on the safety valve there should be an AMP or AMPERAGE or CURRENT rating, usually something like 3.2 amps. This is the amount of amperage that the glow bar must pull in order to be good. You will need a clamp-on amp meter to test the amperage draw of the glow bar. Clamp the meter around either of the 2 lead wires at the back of the glow bar and turn on the thermostat. Observe the amp draw. If it is within 2 percent of the listed rating on the safety valve, the glow bar is good and you should replace the safety valve. If the amp rating is not within 2 percent of the listed rating, replace the glow bar.


WASHER

1. How do I remove the cabinet from my direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / KitchenAid washer?

If you have ever tried to check out the direct drive washer manufactured by Whirlpool Corp., you found out pretty quickly that you can't hardly do anything until the cabinet is removed. The older Whirlpool Corp. washers with a belt do not have a removable cabinet.
While it may sound like a pain to have to remove the cabinet, in reality it is really simple, and it makes getting to the parts a breeze.

All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver.

First step, of course is to unplug the machine. Then remove the 2 Phillips screws on the bottom of the timer console.

The timer console in hinged in the back. Pull the console forward slightly to clear the hooks on the bottom of the end caps, and roll the console up from the bottom on it's hinges.

Under the console you will see a 3 wire harness that is plugged into the top of the cabinet. Unplug this harness.

Using the flat blade screwdriver, pop off the 2 metal clips that are holding the back panel to the top of the cabinet. These clips are sort of "S" shaped, and are located near the left and right edges of the top of the cabinet.

Grasp the cabinet on each side, pull the top of the cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle. Pull straight back on the cabinet and it will slip right off.

To replace the cabinet
Put the cabinet up to the front edge of the base, open the lid so you can see the inside bottom of the cabinet.

Tilt the cabinet to a 45 degree angle and slip the bottom front lip of the cabinet under the front of the base (make sure the console is hinged up).

Now let the cabinet go down. There are 2 dowels on each side of the base that must match up with slots on the side bottom lips of the cabinet.

After the cabinet is in place, look at the back and make sure it is lining up properly on one side. Reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.

Now move to the other side. Line it up properly and reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.

Plug in the harness.

Lower the console, and reinstall the screws.

2. My WASHER does not fill. Water is coming in but it seems to be siphoning the water down the drain.

This should not be to tough too fix. There are 2 causes for this:
The drain hose is too low. The drain hose must be looped higher than the water level in the washer. If it is too low, raise it up. If it is impossible to raise the drain hose, the cure for this is to install a siphon break in your drain hose. The part is cheap and easy to install.
The drain hose must be able go get air in order to prevent setting up a siphon action. If your drain hose is taped to the plumbing pipe, or fits in too tight, it will siphon. The drain hose must just drop into the plumbing pipe. If it is impossible to give the drain hose air at the plumbing pipe, use a siphon break in your drain hose.

DRYER

1. My DRYER just quit. Fuses and breaker are good, motor not running.

You most likely have a thermal cut-off that has opened. This part is usually located on the heater element case. Checking this part with a meter, you should get continuity. As the name says, this is a THERMAL cut-off, meaning it cuts off if the temperature of the element gets too high. While this part CAN open for no apparent reason, it is very rare. The usual causes for this part going out are:

Improper air flow, usually caused by the vent hose behind the dryer being kinked or the vent system otherwise restricted,
The cycling and hi-limit thermostats have both gone bad, causing the dryer to over heat.
When you purchase the thermal cut-off, it sometimes comes with a hi-limit thermostat (depending on the brand), but the cycling thermostat must always be purchased separately.


REFRIGERATOR

1. My REFRIGERATOR freezes everything even when set on the lowest setting.

It sounds like you have a defective cold control (thermostat).